Doug Scott

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For Douglas Scott, the Glasgow-based climbing partner of W. H. Murray in the period 1935-1955, see that article

Douglas Keith Scott CBE, known as Doug Scott (born 29 May 1941), is an English mountaineer noted for the first ascent of the south-west face of Mount Everest on 24 September 1975. Scott and Dougal Haston were the first Britons to climb Everest during this expedition.Douglas Keith Scott. The Alpinist, Issue 2, 29, 1 March 2003


Scott was born in Nottingham, England and started climbing at the age of 12, his interest sparked by a school trip to the White Hall outdoor activities centre near Buxton.


Scott's mountaineering career includes over 30 expeditions to inner Asia and he is regarded as one of the world's leading high altitude and big wall climbers. He is best known for his first ascent of the south-west face of Everest with Dougal Haston in an expedition led by Chris Bonington. All of his other climbs have been in the lightweight alpine style.

Highlights of Scott's climbing career include
  • 1975: South-west face of Everest with Dougal Haston, bivouac on the south summit at 8760 m.
  • 1977: Baintha Brakk, more commonly known as The Ogre (in Pakistan), and descent with both legs broken at the ankle.
  • 1978: Attempt of the west side of K2.
  • 1979: North ridge of Kangchenjunga (8586 m).
  • 1979: Ascent of the north side of Nuptse with Georges Bettembourg, Brian Hall and Alan Rouse.

Scott has climbed the Seven Summits,...
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